Saturday, November 13, 2010

Monday, Oct. 25 to Friday Oct. 29-- Villaz

Have decided, dear reader, to condense this week into a single entry primarily because the routine of the days--Walk, eat, laugh, sleep--was so consistent and the scenery so spectacular, that it seems to make sense to let photos do most of the story telling. 

Monday
Woke to a foot or more of snow and with it still falling.  This is extraordinary at this time of year, even in these high mountain valleys.  The combination of the dump and us having to return our rental car to Sion determined the plan for the day.  Down the valley, and by the time we were half way to Sion the ground was bare.  Returned the car to an appreciative Eurocar woman who inspected it and was dismayed to find that her colleagues in Basel had given us, for a drive through the mountain at this time of year, a vehicle with summer tires.  They received, I'm sure a sharp note of reprimand for this un-Swiss life behaviour.

Walked around this lovely small city (Population: 30,000) for several hours despite Careen recovering from a recently broken ankle.


V in our winter unexpected wonderland

You've heard of the world famous Wintergarten...

And you think you have steps to shovel??

 Beauty on display


Same day, lower down in the valley

Tuesday
Woke to even more snow and a temperature of minus 5.  Oh for the glorious heat of Zeytindali Spa now!  Bundled up and met the walking group in the village parking lot to plan the day.  Now, for those of you who have never been to Switzerland or had the opportunity to watch a group of Swiss make a decision, it is important for you to understand the uber-Swissness of this process.  I was about to write that there isn't a word for "No" in Swiss, but have just remembered my encounter with the cafe owner on Sunday.  So, apparently there is a word for "No" but use of it is discouraged.  Instead, the Swiss negotiate, sometime ad infinitum in the hopes of creating--as they inevitably do--consensus.  So it was with the walking group on the days when there was more than one opinion about which route to take.  The thrust and parry of suggestion and compromise was exquisite, and in a short time we would be off.  

This day the group had made the decision to head up and east.  The climb was gentle and the snow kept the pace slow. Even so, when the sun broke out near noon, we were high above the village at a spot where several rustic benches had been built, so it seemed, for our purposes.


Sunrise from our chalet

 Bus!  Every half hour on the hour regardless of weather, even in this remote valley


Cuteness


Swiss consensus building...or riot.  Hard to tell the difference


Yawn!!! Another majestic view


Cow.  You are not allowed to leave Switzerland without having taken a picture of a cow.  No, really, they check your memory chip at the border, and if you don't have at least one cow photo, you're in big Swiss trouble


It was hell I tell 'ya.  We had to walk all this way for a picnic, and not a single thing to look at along the path


V and Careen and some scenery


Picnic en neige


Goofy Canucks


Trek back in the fog.  Thank heavens there won't be any more of the scenery!


Farmer and cows head for lower ground and greener pastures

Wednesday
No new snow and definitely warmer than yesterday, however, no sun to start.  Despite all the praise I heaped upon the Swiss penchant for consensus yesterday, or perhaps in spite of it, the group fractured this morning.  When agreement could not be reached, we split into two parties and set off in different directions.  V and I went with the group which we thought had chosen the more reasonable trek--less than a 1,000 feet of vertical on a gentle slope, and no snow.  We pooh poohed the choice of the others, who had decided to climb to a glacier.  And we were right, there was too much snow and they failed to reach their objective.  We, on the other hand, did not fail.  I would say "Ha Ha" here, but that would be gloating and not at all in the Swiss spirit.  Besides it would completely ignore the fact that our walk was not quite as advertised.  

Our trek took us from the village of Mase down a trail to the ancient and much smaller community of Ossana, which had been abandoned several decades ago and has only recently been revitalized through the federal government's funding of a work program for at risk youth. Suffice to say that our walk was significantly more challenging that we expected.  However, fearing to be seen as Canadian whiners, we persisted and it was well worth the effort.  In truth, our steadfastness might have wavered had it not been for the fact that Careen's mom, a spry 87, had chosen to join us for the day, and made the descent and assent stride for stride with the rest of us. 


 Someone must have hired a Turkish builder for this

Careen's mom, 87 and capable of walking you into the turf



V leading the way


Thursday
There was more agreement in the parking lot summit this morning, and so all 16 walkers agreed to a single outing, to wit, to return to Ossana, only this time take the vehicles further down the valley to alleviate the toughest part of the descent, and approach the village from another route.  This we did and all were happy.  At least until it came time to pick a spot for picnicking.  Whew!  Arms were waved and opinions expressed and one side even, arbitrarily began to collect stones for a fire at the site of their choice.  Ultimately, however, these rebels were persuaded to transfer their sticks and stones to the alternate site when someone pointed out, with the toe of a boot, that their original spots was rife with cow patties, and besides, the other spot had a better view.

Harmony prevailed and in short order Claude, the resident fire tender, had taken custody of everyone's piece of meat, bought earlier in the day from the Les Hauderes butcher, and had each sizzling to perfection on the grill.  The picnic was at least a couple of hours long, sustained in part by bright sunshine as well as an amazing array of wines and chocolates and fruit and other goodies including our Turkish delights. 

To top off this idyll, on our way back to the cars, we came across a restaurant, on the hillside in the middle of nowhere, and the served wine and beer.  Lord take me now, 'cause heaven can't be any better than this. 

Photos of second Ossana day

The picnic summit.  Surprisingly, Davos is just a couple of valleys away.
Those leaders should take a picnic and a lesson from these folks


 The final picnic spot.  Who could argue with this?



Our chef de feu, Claude


Alexi, the group's resident geologist and folk singer


Friday
No need for discussion this morning, we're all going on a favorite walk along the river to an old sawmill.  A longer walk, but flat ground, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains.  Another memorable picnic and lots of laughter.  Anyone who saw this group would never again think of the Swiss as staid humourless perfectionists. Back to La Sage and a the restaurant deck overlooking the valley and dwarfed by the Dent Blanche.

Spent this final evening with the group.  First to a local pizzeria for sensational pies.  The very end of this valley abuts Italy, and within the lifetimes of some older residents, there was a steady traffic through the pass between this community and its partner on the Italian side.  In fact, both still speak a patois which relects the primary language of the other.  Then in to Evolene to a concert in the church by a visiting men's choir.

Perfect end to a perfect week.

Mill march

 Lunch line at the mill site

Ladies luxuriating

One final look until next time



1 comment:

  1. Hihihi, this is great!
    I love the way you write about my beloved mountains, and the people I know... I especially liked the part about the picture of a cow!
    Thank you for sharing this memories and pictures.
    It was great seeing you, though I hope next time we met I will be in a more quiet situation, and have more time to enjoy our encounter!
    best wishes! XOXO
    Leonie

    ReplyDelete